ONE RECENT AFTERNOON, NINA PRYCHODZKO ARRIVED AT EAST SMF, A NEW VEGETABLE-FOCUSED RESTAURANT IN EAST SACRAMENTO, BEARING GIFTS: two buckets filled with blue hydrangeas and a small plastic bag with a handful of fava bean pods. Prychodzko, who lives a few blocks away, is an urban farmer, growing organic produce for a few restaurants like East SMF. (It’s legal, thanks to Sacramento’s 2015 urban agriculture ordinance.) That night, her hydrangeas ended up in a big bread bowl, decorating the restaurant, while the fava beans appeared in a dish of fresh pasta with arugula pesto...

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